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Caulk, weather-strip, and foam to seal air leaks. Even though you may have a furnace and an air conditioner that run at or above standard efficiency, losing all that conditioned air through leaks in your house is truly "conditioning the great outdoors". Pay special attention to the areas around windows and doors, where pipes enter walls, around light switch and outlet boxes (foam gaskets work best), and anywhere two materials meet. Caulk the interior of wall cracks, not the exterior. Use rope caulk around very leaky windows. Weather-strip your attic access hatch to prevent conditioned air from escaping. Seal your exposed air ducts with mastic or metal butyl tape and wrap them with insulation.
Close your fireplace damper when it is not in use. Don't ever start a fire and turn up the furnace thermostat at the same time! If you rarely or never use your fireplace, consider covering the opening with cardboard or some other type of material to decrease loss of conditioned air.
Repair or replace windows. When repairing windows, don't seal cracks in the glass, replace the whole pane. Make sure your windows shut tight and fit properly. Windows are expensive to replace, if you are considering replacing all or a large portion of your windows, make sure it will be a cost effective upgrade.

Make sure walls, attics, and floors are filled with adequate insulation. Too often existing homes have little or no insulation in the walls and attics. Removing switch plates or outlet covers on outside walls and paying a visit to your attic can help you determine how much insulation you have working for you during those cold winters and hot summers. Attic insulation should be at an R-30 or greater level for a cold climate. The type of insulation you have in your attic determines the thickness and R value present. An insulation specialist can help you determine if it is necessary to add to your attic insulation. The R value of the insulation in your walls is harder to determine and difficult to increase. With typical 2 x 4 construction, you should have at least an R-11 in your walls. If your walls have no insulation and there is space to add it, consider having insulation blown-in. This will help to keep the conditioned air in and your energy bills down. Make sure that it is a cost effective improvement. If you have an unfinished basement or crawlspace, adding insulation to the ceiling (floor joist) will work to ensure that you are not allowing heat to travel to this area. Heat only the areas that you want to heat and not the unconditioned parts of your home.

Wash only full loads of clothes and dishes, but do not overload or oversuds. Wash clothes in cold or warm water and rinse in cold. Always remember to vent your clothes dryer to the outside.
Keep your freezer full, even if only with containers of water, to keep it operating at peak efficiency. If you have a second freezer or refrigerator, be aware that it may be costing you more than $20 per month. Remember to vacuum the condenser coils on your refrigerator or freezer every three months. Also, replace your refrigerator door seal when it becomes worn. To keep your freezer running efficiently, defrost it whenever the ice inside gets to be a quarter inch thick.
Use small cooking appliances like microwaves, frying pans, and crock pots. Save the big appliances for the big jobs.

The most important thing you can do to increase your home's energy efficiency is to determine what your needs are, make a plan, and do it! You may not do everything at once, but each improvement will add to your comfort and increase your savings!

• Utility expenses are one of the largest costs of home ownership after the mortgage.
• Energy efficient homes save money on utility bills and provide greater comfort.
• Reduces environmental pollution.

• A measurement of a home's overall energy efficiency by a Home Energy Rater, similar to knowing the miles per gallon rating for your car.
• Data is recorded and analyzed from the energy using and energy saving features of the home.
• The information is then translated into a multiple point system and given a specific energy rating depending on the number of points the home achieved.
• The energy ratings range from 1 STAR to 5 STAR (0-100 points).
• The average rating fee is about $350.00. Some rating fees may be incorporated within your mortgage costs--check with your local lending institution for details.

• To pinpoint specific areas that are wasting energy and money.
• To participate in various Home Energy Loan and Energy Mortgage programs.
• To know before you buy a home whether it's energy efficient or an energy waster.
• To offer as a valuable selling point for a home.

• larger loan volume and higher loan amounts
• unique marketing niche
• more qualified buyers

• more house for the money, more money for the house
• lower operating costs
• increased comfort and resale value

• a home that stands out in a crowd
• more qualified buyers

• more qualified buyers
• increase listings and commissions
• enhance customer service
• future inclusion in the MLS

• energy design analysis
• more qualified buyers

• 1.6 million homes rated
• a minimum 11% increase in first-time buyer activity
• an $8 billion investment in energy improvements
• additional mortgage payments of $640 million, higher resale value and,
• the creation pf 50,000 full-time jobs

• An EEM allows the home buyer to finance 100% of the energy improvements.
• Works best when a Home Energy Rating System documents the relative efficiency the home.
• FHA allows home buyers to finance the energy efficiency of a new home above its appraised value when the home energy rating documents of the home exceeds the Current Energy Code in place in that area.
• Through this program, home buyers can purchase homes whose prices exceed FHA limits.

• Help more lower and middle class families achieve the dream of home ownership.
• Purchase higher quality and more affordable housing.
• Create a market demand and value for energy efficient homes.
• Catapult new construction standards above minimum energy codes.

• Energy Efficient Mortgages finance cost-effective energy improvements at the time of sale or refinancing.
• A home energy rater inspects the home and recommends cost-effective improvements.
• The funds for the improvements are placed into an escrow by the lending institution.
• A post-improvement rating is performed to confirm the improvements were installed. The lending institution then releases the escrow funds to pay for materials and contracted labor.
• The FHA and VA Energy Improvement Mortgage programs can finance improvements above the appraised value, if the measures are shown to be economical.

• Upgrade the homes they are buying immediately without tapping the family's savings or taking out a higher interest, home improvement loan.
• Own a more comfortable home that costs less to heat and cool.
• Net a better return when selling because of the higher resale value.

• All of the Energy Rated Homes of Utah (ERHU) certified Home Energy Raters are independent contractors.
• A current list may be obtained by contacting ERHU directly. Please be sure to contact all of the raters in your area for price quotes since prices may vary. Also, ask them for references.

Utah Energy Raters

• Energy Rated Homes of Utah is associated with RESNET (Residential Energy Services Network) which is a nationally recognized association with a collective investment of over $15 million.
• All ratings are professionally reviewed and centrally processed by ERHU.
• All Home Energy Raters must complete a rigorous education and testing process to ensure quality is maintained at all levels.

• A blower door test is performed as part of the Home Energy Rating.
• It pinpoints areas of air leakage that cannot be seen otherwise.

• The time it takes to perform a rating will vary somewhat depending on the size of the house.
• You should expect a rating to last about 1-2 hours.

What are some methods of measuring duct leakage in a house?

METHODS OF MEASURING DUCT LEAKAGE